Beloved for its natural beauty, luster and uniqueness, Pearls have been treasured around the world since ancient times and have been a popular choice in setting jewellery throughout the century.
Interesting History of Pearl
For a long time, pearls have been worn as a form of adornment. A fragment of pearl jewellery found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess that dates back to 420 BC is now on display at the Louvre in Paris. The ancient Chinese were the first to discover that by inserting an object into an oyster and pearls were presented as gifts to Chinese royalty as early as 2300 BC. In ancient Rome, pearl jewellery was considered the ultimate status symbol, symbolising wealth, power and prestige. So rare and expensive were the spherical gems that in the 1st century BC, Julius Caesar ruled that pearls were only limited to the ruling classes. In Victorian era, pearl symbolises tear, and was considered a suitable adornment for young ladies in the latter part of the 19th century.
How Pearls Grow
Unlike gemstones that are mined from the earth, living organisms such as oysters and mussles produce pearls because of their innate protective mechanism. A pearl is formed when a foreign particle such as a parasite or piece of shell accidentally lodged in an oyster's soft inner body. This causes the oyster to initiate a protective response, by secreting nacre to build up around the particle. The outcome is a beautiful lustre pearl that we see. Cultured pearls are formed using the same process by implanting a foreign particle into the oyster.
The production of fully round pearls which led to a new era in pearl cultivation industry was started in 1890s in Japan by Mikimoto Kokichi, who discovered that by introducing a tiny mother-of-pearl bead into the tissue of a live oyster, it will stimulate it to produce a perfectly round pearl. Mikimoto Kōkichi subsequently revolutionalised the cultured pearl industry with the establishment of his luxury pearl company Mikimoto.
Sources of Pearls
Until the start of the 20th century, the only way of collecting pearls was through divers risking their lives at depths of up to 100ft to retrieve the pearl oysters. This dangerous task carried limited chance of success as a ton of oysters would produce only three or four quality pearls.
The development of cultured pearl industry in Japan laid an important foundation for the global scale commercialisation of pearl farming, utilizing a variety of pearl oysters.
Today, natural pearls are among the rarest of gems and their almost entirely depleted supply means that they are very sought after. Their scarcity is reflected in the prices they fetch at auction, with antique pearl necklaces and earrings selling for record-breaking sums. Last year, a pair of natural pearl earrings which once belonged to Empress Eugenie of France, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte - sold for a new world record price of US$3.3 million at Doyle New York. Also incredibly beautiful and sought after are abalone pearls, which are among the rarest in the world as they are not cultured and only found by chance in rocky, coastal waters.
Types of Pearl
Pearl is the birthstone for June, together with alexandrite and moonstone. Our beloved gems of all time, pearls— natural or cultured — come in a wide variety of types.
Akoya Pearls are saltwater pearls that primarily cultivated in Japan. They are mostly white to cream colour, but other natural colours such as blue, gray, and yellow are also possible. They typically range from 6 mm to 7 mm.
South Sea Pearls are saltwater pearls that are mainly cultivated around Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines. They typically range from 8mm to 15mm. The pearls' body colour can range from white to golden but they are also available in other colours.
Tahitian Pearls are saltwater pearls that are primarily cultivated around the islands of French Polynesia, the colours can range from white to black, and also other exotic colours including green and purple. They typically range from 8mm to 14mm.
Freshwater Pearls are largely cultivated in China, with Japan and the United States produce small crops. They are available in large range of sizes, colours, and shapes.
Mabe Pearls are natural pearls that grown against the inside of the shell. This allows the Mabe pearl to develop a dome shape with a flat back. Mabe pearls are cultivated in Japan, China, and some countries in South East Asia. Their oversized shape and shimmering rainbow-like luster make them a favourite for setting in fine earrings, rings and pendants.
Colours of Pearl
Pearls come in a variety of natural colours. The most common colours including white and cream. Black pearls are considered rarer in nature, and are more complex to cultivate than other colours. Therefore they are considered more valuable.
Care of Pearls
Unlike other more robust gemstones, pearls require a bit of TLC to ensure they stay looking pristine. In the case of pearl necklaces, it is a good idea to take them to a jeweller every five years to check whether they need re-stringing.
- Store separately from other jewellery such as diamonds to ensure the harder stone does not scratch their surface.
- We would recommend putting pearl jewels into a cloth bag before placing them in the jewellery box.
- Never spray scent directly onto pearl jewellery as acidic products can dull a pearl's lustre.
- Wipe pearls with a soft cloth after each wear to remove oils etc before putting them away.
- Don't wear pearl jewellery when swimming as Chlorine and Salt Water can easily damage them.
- Never immerse them in Hot Water.